Once all of your lap joints are complete, they should look something like the photo below. You will notice how my cross members have two notches in them- one for each post!

Step 3: Assemble the posts and cross members

Assuming all of your notches were cut accurately, this should be relatively easy. I laid my posts on the ground and then inserted my cross member (u-notches facing one another). You may need to use a rubber mallet if your notches are on the tighter side. Once they are fit together, fasten them with either a wood or decorative black screw. This is where you will start to see your wedding arch take shape. Once fastened, I stood my posts up and used a trigger clamp to hold them to my work bench.

Step 4: Cut the angle braces for the top corners

This step not only creates some added visual interest, but it also helps brace your posts and cross members, helping to keep them square. I opted for 4×4’s with a mitred 45 degree cut. I know everything is square when all of my edges fit flush together.

There are many options for creating angled braces. I went with 4×4’s but you could also use 2×6’s with a straight or rounded cut. It all depends on what look or design you are after. Here are a few examples of other angle braces that can be made.

a. This is the simple angle brace that I used. Not only do I like the clean square look, but it will go best with the theme of our wedding, as well as our house afterword.

b. Similar to the straight 4×4 angle brace, however, this time they have included a curved edge with sharp straight ends.

c. A much more decorative example of an angle brace. Beautiful but requires the right build if order for the design to work.

d. A complete rounded angle brace. This will soften the look of the whole arch/arbor/pergola and can make for a stunning statement.

Step 5: Determine the width of your wedding arch and cut your cross piece

Because we were planning to use ours as a wedding arch, I didn’t want it to be too deep. I ended up going with an overall depth of 35″. I used 2×6’s for the main cross piece at the bottom of the arch. My plan was to keep the sides of our wedding arch as open as possible and I knew a 2×6 near the bottom of the posts, plus the slats across the top would be enough bracing to keep my wedding arch strong and square.

Originally, I just planned on screwing this piece to the sides of my post, but decided to change my mind on the fly (I tend to do that mid project….). I thought that just screwing the 2×6 to the side of the posts took away from all of the notching I had done in the 4×4’s at the top of the arch. Therefore, I decided to notch out the 4×4 to accommodate the 2×6 as well. In the video you will see how I used a circular saw to make these notches after the fact. If I had know this was the plan from the start, I would have used my mitre saw to make these notches as well.

Step 6: Cut the slats for the top of the wedding arch

If you have ever gone and looked at 2×2″ lumber you will know they typically look like a dog’s hind leg (that’s really warped for the non dog people out there). This is where the rest of the 2×6’s come into play. I started by cutting 35″ lengths (the width of my wedding arch). From there I took the pieces to my table saw and ripped 1.5″ wide pieces. This gave me a 1.5″x1.5″ slat, or the equivalent to a 2×2″. However, unlike buying 2×2’s, mine are all straight and solid.

Tip: Dimensional lumber always has a rounded edge from the mill. So before you start ripping your final pieces on the table saw, set your fence to 5.25″ away from your blade and remove a 1/4″ from the length of your 2×6. This will give you a square corner to start from.

If you find that the 2×2’s in store look great (or you don’t want to make your own) go ahead and add them to the materials list. Just remember to alter the number and length of 2×6’s accordingly. If I had bought 2×2’s for this project, I would have needed six 8′ pieces and only one 8 foot 2×6. However, I would have also had a lot of scrap wood leftover afterword.

Step 7: Install the slats atop the arch

The last step to building your very own wedding arch (kind of). Find the centre of your arch and mark it with a pencil. Next, mark the centre of one of your slats. Line up these two marks as and install the first slat atop your cross members.

Tip: Pre-drill these holes with a standard drill bit to prevent the slats from cracking when your screw them in.

Bonus tip: Instead of trying to measure and mark every place you want to install your slats. Take a second and make yourself two identical spacers (mine were 1.25″ thick). Place these spacers in between your slats for an identical space each time. I made mine out of some scrap 4×4’s from the an earlier stage in the project.

Once you have the centre slat installed, install the rest working toward to outer edge of your wedding arch. You will also notice that I placed two screws at each end of my slats. This may seem like overkill, but because I only have one lower side brace at the bottom of the arch, I needed the slats to have some strength. Two screws at each end also prevents the wedding arch from twisting as it gets moved between locations.

Step 8: Seal your arch

If you want to keep that beautiful reddish cedar colour, you are going to need to seal the wood. Depending on your area, you will need to re-seal every couple of years. Any standard wood sealer will get the job done. In our case, I don’t mind the wood turning grey over time and don’t intend to seal it.

If you are new to building and DIY projects, be sure to read our post on the best power tools for your DIY projects.

Let’s be honest, not everyone needs a wedding arch. If you are still interested in completing this project for your yard, head over to our post about designing and planning your landscape before beginning your project.